Several of the biggest names in towns, from Rotate to Ganni, chose to skip the podium this season in favor of Covid-friendly digital releases, which was actually a bonus for several smaller ones brands which received more attention from the press and buyers.
While their predecessors – like Stine Goya, Brogger and Baum und Pfergarten – rose to prominence through florals, femininity and unabashed use of candy color, the brands that made waves this season have done with an altogether more grungy vibe that relied heavily on sustainability, upcycling, and the TikTok-endorsed Y2K aesthetic.
These are the three hot new names you should know
No list of hot new Nordic names would be complete without the mention of (di)vision, a label that works entirely with unsold stock and pre-existing materials founded by cool Copenhagen siblings Nanna and Simon Wick in 2018 “Often when brands are working with upcyling and rebuilding, it comes at a very high price. We thought, how can we do that, and still work with more affordable prices for a younger generation,” says Simon.
They launched with just one item, a split fabric bomber jacket with a back zip that quickly became cult, and is now a permanent item in the range which they have reworked in 16 different colourways. “We hope that when people see a zipper in the back of a garment, they will echo it with (di)vision,” says Simon, explaining that working with unsold fabric means all colorways are limited to 1/ 5 to 1/200.
The vibe is grungy streetwear and the AW22 show (their second to Copenhagen Fashion Week) banked on a Nirvana-style aesthetic with baggy jeans, plaid overshirts and ultra-cropped tees, all of which paraded on the backs of friends, family and partners. “We want everyone who supports us to feel like part of a big family,” says Simon, who even cast one of their best clients on the show.
Is it difficult to start a business with your brother or sister? “Working with his brother is the best thing ever,” Nanna enthuses. “Of course, it can be quite difficult at times… We’ve found that you have to be completely honest with each other. So do we. And I think that kind of closeness is a real blessing when creating a Being able to introduce an idea without filter and speak from the heart is priceless.
With their first flagship opening in Copenhagen in March, newly launched NFT pieces and an SS23 collection in the works, (di)vision has a busy 2022 in store.
With just one Instagram post, the Kardashians have the power to put a young brand on the map. When Kim Kardashian buys 19 of the 22 pieces from your second collection, you become a brand to know overnight. “It really opened doors for me into new markets, and it definitely boosted my self-confidence,” says Swedish designer Jade Cropper, who launched her brand in 2020 and received the prestigious talent slot last week. . Copenhagen Fashion Week Schedule. “I hope it wasn’t the last time!”
Cropper, who makes their pieces from scrap and recycled materials, makes each piece themselves by hand in their workshop in Stockholm. Her show was a buzzing Y2K and motocross-inspired affair, brimming with leg slits, asymmetrical necklines and lots of leather. “My grandmother is a great source of inspiration in everything I do”, explains the designer. “I want my clothes to make you feel strong, empowered and confident, just like she was.”
A. Røge Hove
Amalie Røge Hove makes it incredibly sexy knitwear. After earning a master’s degree in textile design from the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts and then working for years as a knitwear designer for Danish brands Cecilie Bahnsen and Mark Tan, Røge, Hove launched his knitwear brand eponymous in 2019. “Working for other designers has taught me so much about knitwear…and made me experiment and work with the material in a different way than I did,” says Røge Hove , which makes all of its pieces on home knitting machines in Copenhagen in a process that is virtually waste-free.
“We believe that tomorrow’s fashion should focus on their strengths and so we create two collections a year and they only cover the categories we really believe in,” she continues. By playing with dimensions, contrasting colors, keyhole cutouts and transparency, Røge Hove creates super sensual fine knits that cling and celebrate all body types. Her most popular style is a tight cardigan with a drawstring closure, which she has made in several colors and in a longer version as well. “it’s definitely a key silhouette,” says Røge Hove.
Ultimately, the Danish designer has made it his mission to “challenge our perception of knitwear and challenge our expectations of the material and how it behaves. It’s an ancient craft and yet I believe it still holds so many undiscovered possibilities.