By COLLEEN BARRY, AP Fashion Editor
MILAN (AP) — Front rows of stars and side-by-side seats gave Milan Fashion Week a pre-pandemic air.
So far this week, Sharon Stone has sat at Dolce & Gabbana, Rihanna and A$AP Rocky rocked Gucci, and Kim Kardashian wore Prada, at Prada.
After two years of digital-physical mix, social distancing and travel restrictions that kept many foreign buyers and publishers away, there was a sense of a return to a new normal, which now includes the war on the eastern fringe of the world. ‘Europe. Tens of thousands gathered in central Milan’s Piazza Duomo on Saturday to demonstrate for peace, criss-crossed by weekend shoppers and fashionistas.
Highlights from Saturday’s previews, primarily of womenswear, for upcoming fall and winter include:
DOLCE&GABBANA CREATES A REAL-WORLD AVATAR
Want to be your own avatar in real life? Discover the latest collection from Dolce & Gabbana, which brought the metaverse to the catwalk.
Why leave all the fun to the digital world, when there’s an actual version of a shiny red mini dress with exaggeratedly puffed sleeves, or a shaggy yeti-style coat in bold stripes or checks?
Whatever the real-life avatar, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s new collection is all about sexy. The stable of the season are sheer stockings with suspenders, which pop out from cropped hemlines, through sheer lace dresses and even, improbably, one-leg pants. Yes, apparently this innovation will be of some benefit in the D&G metaverse.
Corsets defined the shape of many coats and dresses, and also appeared as silky outlines on fitted black dresses, tops and jackets. To better transition from a digital to a digital world, there were fitted tops and leggings with shiny finishes worn under cut-out dresses and skirts. Large 3D style sunglasses finished the look, along with stiletto heels. The designers also pulled off some quirky humor in a series of pod-shaped garments – coats, jackets and knitwear – designed to be worn protectively over the head, almost like a nun’s habit.
Sharon Stone sat front row alongside Sam Webb, Lady Kitty Spencer and Adam Senn and rapper Gunna. She nodded appreciatively at the passing glances, articulating, ‘Gorgeous’ at a black faux fur strappy dress and ‘Wow’ at a furry white number.
The designers recently announced that they are ditching fur this year, but will continue to work with artisan furriers on synthetic alternatives to maintain the craftsmanship.
Every Marni look appeared out of nowhere, on an undefined trail inside an abandoned warehouse with dirt floors and overgrown with greenery.
The models walked dazedly through the crowd, each followed by a hooded torchman leading their way wearing a trouser uniform with trailing hems and pointy plastic shoes.
The models themselves each wore a creation by creative director Francesco Rizzo, as well as an item from their own wardrobe, as part of Rizzo’s growing collaboration with a community around the brand he calls collaborators. Elaborate hairstyles, including teddy bears poking out of knit beanies, twisted felt and wool, or wire devil ears, gave the slow, irregular procession a kind of zombie menace.
Rizzo himself entered the parade, halfway through, wearing a geometric sweater he knitted himself in two days, distressed pants from the new collection and a tuxedo jacket used that belonged to his grandfather.
“Things in our cabinets become the sense of who we are. Sometimes you forget those things,’ Rizzo said afterwards. that we do together at Marni.”
From the dark cavernous space, the crowd spilled out into an impromptu feast of fruit and cake, bread and cheese, served on assorted china and silver under bright blue skies.
One collaborator, Izzy Adams of Los Angeles, wore a custom pleated floral dress created by Rizzo, which appeared to be torn and frayed after being dropped with a can of blue paint. She layered it with a childhood t-shirt decorated with palm trees that once fitted and is now a crop top. This is her fourth show with Marni. “There are a lot of really interesting people on board,” she said, as a model posed on the banquet table, holding a glass of wine.
JIL SANDER’S NEW MINIMALISM
Designers Lucie and Luke Meier redefine Jil Sanders minimalism with artistic gestures and intricate tailoring that breathe the silhouette.
The jackets in the new collection had a bell shape that hovered over mini sketches; straight coats had built-in capes, worn over short ruffled skirts; flat knots adorn straight dresses on the straps or on the front. Necklines were defined with large V-shaped bibs, or nautical lapels. Textiles are mostly wools and crepes, some textured, but there were also silky soft dresses with neat scarf ties at the neckline.
“Each garment has the dignity and subtlety of tailoring,” the designers said in notes.
Reflecting the cool contemplative nature of the collection, the models walked down a catwalk decorated with classic sculptures. The color palette was soft, including off-white, buttery yellow, pink, and lilac gold.
THE DIVINE PRINTS OF ARBESSER
Milanese designer Arthur Arbesser received his inspiration for this season’s prints through some kind of divine intervention. By pure chance, the priest who baptized the Viennese designer saw him appear as a costume designer for a Berlin production of “Der Rosenklavier”. ”
“He recognized my name (after about four decades) and thought I might be the kind of person interested in photos of Baroque fabric prints in a museum in Salzburg, and he sent me the CD,” said said Arbesser.
The images were sometimes only snippets, showing baroque flowers in a myriad of colors, Arbesser transformed them into a patchwork print, overlaid with his own brushstrokes and elements of . Another print is taken from his own sheet of watercolor paint, with streaks of color and sharp black stripes.
He pulled it together in an indulgent silhouette that ranged from wrap skirts to sporty boxy jackets, pretty angel-sleeve layered dresses to hand-knit scarves and frills. The looks were topped off with a Dante-style cap, neatly tied under the chin in a nod to the 700th anniversary of the great Italian’s death celebrated last September.
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